The Wild Coast – Another Day in Coffee Bay

Durban on the beach

I moved on from Joburg to Durban, another South African metropolis with a huge Inidan influence. I could use my Hop-on Hop-off bus ticket from Baz Bus the first time. A great thing, just call them or write an email and they pick you up from the hostel and drop you off at the next one. It is also a great opportunity to meet like-minded people, which you meet frequently again in one of the next buses.

Durban itself, with almost 600.000 inhabitants South Africa’s 3rd largest city, located directly at the Indian Ocean, didn’t really attracted me. That’s why I decided to stay a bit outside at the beachside, at the Durban Backpackers on the beach. In the pretty wealthy neighborhood, with lots of tension along the coast, I just had to walk over the street to get to the beach. If this mortal way is too long for you (it was incredible hot) could also refresh at the little pool at the hostel.

I planed to stay 2 nights, but in the end I was 3. Simply because the Baz Bus is only 4-5 days a week and didn’t drive at my planed departure day. But no big deal, it could be worse than spending another night at the beach. The extra day gave me the time to get a badly needed hair cut. Unfortunately, I probably picked  the most expensive one whole Africa. But a bit luxury from time to time does me good. 😉

Port Shepstone

As I said, a day later than planed I moved on and billet on the next hostel directly on the beach. My departure was Umtentweni/Port Shepstone. The hostel was super cosy, with an own access to the beach and a really relaxed atmosphere. I was kind of glad about that, because I could just leave my cares behind and enjoy the sunsets at the beach.

Luckily they had a TV. Weaponed with refreshing barley water, I was ready for an extended soccer weekend… 😉

Coffee Bay

2 nights later the baz bus stopped again at my hostel door. After the relaxing time in Durban and Port Shepstone I was supposed to get more action in Coffee Bay. A beloved place for South African backpackers at the Wild Coast. For sure, I met well-known faces in the bus again. We all had the same destination: Hostel Coffee Shack! An idyllic place, between to hills, directly at the ocean. An ease for all travelers.

I stayed 3 nights in total. The same pattern as in the places before: without exaggerating, 70% of the hostel were German. I didn’t reckon with so many compatriots.

The hostel did what it said. A breathtaking surrounding, great landscape, which is more reminiscent of a mix between the Alpes and the British coast, sun, beach and the Indian Ocean. I met some awesome people there, I felt connected with. We had a great time together in which I tried to preserve my health a lot. With stern discipline I took my daily  dose of Gin Tonic together with Alex from Munich. Tonic, as is generally known, prevents Malaria and since Tonic Water itself doesn’t taste like real medicine, you must add Gin. 😉

Arrival at Coffee Sack

The Baz Bus stopped only at Mthata, close to Nelson Mandelas final resting place. That’s why we had to get another bus there to get to Coffee Bay. Fortunately, the hostel had a shuttle service. After we checked in, around afternoon, and put our stuff in the huts, we hiked to the next hill to gaze the beautiful sunset. And then it was already time for the daily dose of the Gin-Tonic-medicine after the dinner.


We spent day 2 at the beach. A bit lazing in the sun, a bit splashing in the sea and enjoying the waves. We set up a volleyball net after a short lunchtime, to play some beach volleyball. But merely not to much sport. The strengh-sepping volleyball game was enough considering the blazing sun (and my current fitness condition). I spent the rest of the afternoon on my towel at a shady place.

Every night at the bar of the hostel was a billiard tournament on, the so called “Killer-Pool”. The concept is easy: It’s dog eat dog in last man standing mode. If you pot any ball you keep your live (even if its the black 8), if you miss you lose one live. After 2 misses you are out. The winner gets the tour, the hostel offers every day, for free. The “Buffalo-Rule” inside the bar makes it even more difficult. You are only allowed to drink with the left hand. If you do with the right-hand side, you are forced to chug the whole drink.

The first night I went out unsung. I could not accept that as a predestinated pub athlete. No sooner said than done: this time Stayed alive till the end and won the “Killer-Pool”.

Hike to the “Hole in the Wall”

So I could do the hike to the “Hole in the Wall” gratis. Or better to say, the hike from THE natural spectacle in Coffee Bay back to the hostel. We were driven to the rock with the hole in its middle where the waves of the Indian Ocean break through. From there we hiked along the coast, uphill and downhill, back to the hostel. More than 4 hours! Really exhausting!!! Have a look:

Say farewell

As always I had to say Goodbye to embosomed people and wish them good travels. Miranda, Alex and Uwe (yes really Uwe, like my dad :D) rented a car and had to get back to Cape Town. I went with Katherina from Göttingen to Port Elizabeth. Katherina only stayed for one night before she moved on to Jeffreys Bay the next morning. I want to stay a bit longer, because I have enough time to get to Cape Town before the 23rd of March to catch my plane to Sydney from there. And there is a Casino in P.E. as well…

61 comments on “The Wild Coast – Another Day in Coffee Bay

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